The Scottish Kilt

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The Kilt

A kilt is a men's garment that consists primarily of a length of cloth wrapped around the waist and secured by means of buckles and straps; it is usually worn with a pouch for money (and other items) called a sporran. The historical great kilt was long enough to drape up over the shoulder, or use as foul weather gear, but is rarely seen in modern times. The kilt is associated with traditional Scottish Highland dress and, as such, is almost always made of wool with a woven pattern called tartan (sometimes called plaid). (Traditionally, women do not wear kilts, but often wear tartan skirts.)

Today most Scotsmen see kilts as formal dress or ceremonial dress. They are often worn at weddings or other formal occasions, while there are still a few people who wear them daily. Kilts are also used for parades by groups like the Scouts, and in many places kilts are seen in force at highland games and pipe band championships as well as being used for Scottish country dances and ceilidhs. The British Army and armies of other Commonwealth nations still continue to have kilts as part of a dress uniform, though they have not been used in combat since World War I.

Underwear

The wearing of undergarments with the kilt is a matter of debate. Some believe that underwear should be worn at all times, and going without it is a form of self-indulgence or even exhibitionism. Then there are those who say that underwear should never be worn, and to do so goes against tradition. One author claims that he never knew of a man who gave it a fair trial that ever went back to wearing underpants with the kilt, and suggests wearing a long-tailed shirt or undershirt to sit on. The majority of wearers have their own preference, and usually have no qualms with whatever anyone else wears (or doesn't wear) beneath their kilt.

The uniforms worn by members of several military regiments mandate "no underwear" with the kilt except at specified occasions, such as playing in the pipe band (where marking time can involve raising the knees), taking part in organised sports like Highland games, or attending functions where ladies are present. As a result, to go without underwear is often referred to as "going regimental" or "military practice". (This is similar to the American military expression of going "commando".) In the 1950s, kilted soldiers on parade would be checked by the sergeant major using a mirror on the end of a stick. In 1994, a Black Watch soldier received wide press exposure, because of windy conditions during a military ceremony in Hong Kong.

In certain instances, underwear may be useful; it is often difficult for someone new and unused to wearing the kilt to remain decent while regimental, especially in a heavy breeze or while dancing. Both one of the oldest kilt makers and the oldest mail order company for Highland attire in Scotland provide underwear designed for the kilt, although most wearers who regularly go with underwear choose ordinary briefs or boxer shorts.

In the end, whether or not underwear is worn on any particular occasion is up to the individual wearer. Whatever decision is made, what a gentleman wears under his kilt is traditionally his own business, and as a rule, polite men will be at pains to keep it so and to preserve the mystique. Thus, the reply to a question on the topic may hint at the answer, but rarely states it outright. Good standard replies if asked are, "Nothing is worn under the kilt. It's all in perfect working order", "The future of bonnie Scotland", "Shoes and socks", or offering the asker to look for themselves.

The kilt today

Kilts have become normal wear for formal occasions, for example being hired for weddings in much the same way as top hat and tails are in England or dinner jackets in America, and the kilt is being worn by anyone regardless of nationality or descent. Although a white tie style exists, the more common style of formal Highland regalia is seen in Black tie.

Kilts have increasingly become more common around the world for casual wear. It's not uncommon at all to see kilts making an appearance at Irish pubs, and it is becoming somewhat less rare to see them in the workplace. Casual use of the kilt can be dressed down with lace-up boots or mocassins, and perhaps with a tee shirt or golf shirt. Or it can be a little more dressed up with woolen kilt hose, a button up shirt, and/or a sweater. The small ornamental Sgian Dubh dagger may be omitted where security concerns are paramount.

The modern tailored kilt is box-pleated or knife-pleated, with the pleats sometimes sewn in and the lower edges reaching not lower than the centre of the knee-cap. Nowadays a lighter weight of cloth tends to be used. The kilt is traditionally for men only, although in the modern era, women have also taken up the kilt as well as dresses patterned after kilts, and women pipers frequently wear kilts.

As with any other form of attire, the kilt is subject to the vagaries of fashion. Since the 1980s, kilts have appeared in such materials as leather, denim, blends of polyester and viscose, and acrylic. Solid colours have also been used in place of tartan (solid kilts were historically common in Ireland and the Highlands, especially saffron-coloured), as well as camoflage patterns. While these garments may be disliked by traditionalists, they provide evidence that the kilt still has a place in the modern fashion world and continues to evolve.

Kilts have also made an appearance in Wales and Cornwall for special occasions. In these two Celtic regions the kilt is closely linked to the Celtic revival movements of the 19th and 20th century. The English county of Northumberland also possesses a tartan, and some Northumbrians, most notably Northumbrian pipers, wear kilts.

The Scottish Kilt - Articles

The Kilt

Underwear

The kilt today